اولین تلاش-۱۹۲۲

Chapter four

The first attempt - 1922

In 1922 a larger expedition returned. They brought oxygen with them this time, but the equipment was very heavy, and it did not always work. Many of the climbers wanted to climb the mountain on their own, if possible, without help. So climbing with oxygen was not popular with most of the climbers.

Four climbers set out on the first summit attempt - Mallory, Morshead, Norton, and Somervell. With five porters, they left Camp 4 on the North Col at 7/00 a.m. There was a terrible cold wind, and the climbers moved slowly, cutting steps in the snow for the porters behind them.

They hoped to reach 8,230 metres that day, but at 7,620 metres they were too cold and tired to go on. They found a place for Camp 5 and the porters left their loads here and went back down.

The four men crawled into their two small tents to rest. But all night there was a high wind, and it was difficult to breathe or sleep. To get water to drink, they had to melt snow over a small cooker, which took a long time.

Next morning, Morshead was ill. So Mallory, Norton, and Somervell set out at 8/00 a.m., leaving Morshead alone in the tent. They moved slowly, stopping after every few steps to rest and breathe. As they climbed, their hobnail boots slipped dangerously on the stones and rocks.

In the thin air they felt tired, more tired than any of them had ever felt before. At 2/00 p.m. they reached 8,227 metres, but they were still about 600 metres below the summit. So they turned back, and helped Morshead down to Camp 3.

On the way down, they met three more of their climbers coming up. They were the Australian George Finch, a Gurkha called Tejbir Bura, and Geoffrey Bruce - a young man who had never climbed before. Unlike the first group, Finch and Bruce liked using oxygen.

They made a new Camp 5 - 150 metres higher than Mallory’s - but then they were caught in a storm and had to stay in their tent for two nights. On the third day Finch and Bruce went on, using their oxygen, to 8,323 metres. But here Bruce became exhausted and had to be helped down.

Because the oxygen had been so successful, Mallory, Somervell, and a third climber called Colin Crawford decided to make another attempt, this time with oxygen. But while they were climbing across a snow slope, there was a sudden avalanche. Everyone was buried under the snow. All the climbers and seven porters managed to climb out, but seven porters were killed.

It was clear that Everest had won - this time.